Archive for the ‘Eye Care’ Category

Keeping An Eye On Holiday Toy Safety

kid with darts
As the packages pile up under the tree, it’s important to keep in mind that while toys are fun, they can also be dangerous. In fact, emergency rooms in the United States treated over 265,000 toy-related injuries last year. This makes safety a significant factor when selecting toys for children.
Recently,  The American Academy of Ophthalmology (AAO) recently issued a warning to parents about the risks that some toys present to children’s vision (almost half of toy-related injuries that result in an ER visit involve the face or head). If you plan to give gifts to children this year, you should keep eye safety in mind before making a purchase.
Based on the AAO’s recommendations, here are some tips for keeping your kids safe while they enjoy their holiday presents:


Risky Toys and Prevention

According to the AAO statement, toys that can contribute to eye injuries include:

  • BB, airsoft and paintball guns
  • Laser toys
  • Sports equipment
  • Toys with sharp or protruding parts
  • Darts

Accidents involving toys can cause serious eye injuries, some of which could permanently damage a child’s eyesight.



In addition to being aware of the types of toys that can result in eye injury, it’s also important for gift givers and parents to:

  • Read toy labels for age group recommendations. What may be safe for a 10 year old may not be a good choice for a child of seven.
  • Provide adequate supervision while playing with toys.
  • Seek medical attention if a child receives an eye injury, even if it doesn’t initially appear to be serious.


Eye Protection

The AAO recommends that parents purchase adequate eye protection for their children in the form of glasses or goggles with polycarbonate lenses. Zenni provides a full range of affordable children’s glasses and sports goggles that may be appropriate for your children. You should, of course, always talk to your eye doctor about the type of eye protection that is best for your child’s needs.



Tuesday, December, 24 2013 by

Which Eyeglasses Are Right For You? Bifocal, Progressive or Single-Vision Reading Glasses?

It’s great being over 40.
No, 40 is not really the new 20. That’s because at 40 you really begin to come into your own, personally and professionally, unlike when you’re 20. It’s in your 40s when you start to figure out who you really are. Sure, you’ve made some mistakes. Who hasn’t? But now that you’re over 40 you find you’re actually learning from your mistakes, rather than making the same ones over and over again.
40th birthday cake
But just at the point you start to hit your stride, you also start noticing that physically, certain things don’t work as well as they used to.
Like your eyes, for example.
It used to be that when you were younger, whether you were nearsighted, farsighted or had perfect vision, your eyes could adjust to see things both far away and up close, whether you were looking through prescription eyeglasses or not. But now that you’ve entered your fifth decade, a curious thing happens. You notice you’re not able to see things up close as well as you used to.
Reading an instructional manual? No way.
The directions on a pill bottle? Fuggedaboutit.
Now you find yourself constantly moving what you’re trying to read back and forth, back and forth, as you attempt to find the exact position where you can see it clearly. You do this so much you start to feel like a trombone player.
trombone player with sunglasses
You don’t want to admit it, but you know it’s true. It’s time to start thinking about multifocal glasses. Or at least reading glasses.
But what should you get? If you already wear glasses to correct nearsighted or farsighted vision, the first thing that probably pops into your mind is bifocals. But what enters your mind right after that is grandma, rocking and knitting and watching “Matlock.”
old woman knitting
That’s not me, you say to yourself. I don’t want people looking at me, seeing that line on my glasses and thinking, “Out to pasture.” You’ve heard there are such things as no-line bifocals, or multifocal glasses, called progressives, but you’re not sure about them. You’ve heard that some people have a hard time finding their visual sweet spot.
So you consider separate pairs of glasses, for distance, computer, and reading vision. But if you wear corrective lenses already, you might not want to have to worry about using multiple pairs of glasses. “Glasses strewn all over the house?” Uh-uh. “Reading glasses on a chain?” Even more emphatically: Uh-uh. Once again the dreaded image comes to mind: Grandma.
black and white grandma
Don’t worry. You’re not your grandma. You’re years away from the early bird special at Denny’s. All you need is a little help with your presbyopia.
My what? OK, we’ll explain. When you’re young and your eye muscles are elastic, they easily expand and contract to allow the lens of your eye to change shape to enable you to see objects clearly at various distances.
This process is called accommodation.
accomodation in eyesight
But after your eye muscles do this for about 40 years, they get a little tired and stiff, just like your other muscles. Consequently, no longer can your eye muscles so easily expand and contract to enable the accommodation process.
This condition is called presbyopia.
If you have it, and once you hit your 40s there’s no way around it, you’re going to need some kind of reading magnification power. So let’s look at the various options to see which is right for you.
Again, if you already are wearing corrective eyeglasses, multifocal lenses will most likely be your best option. So let’s start with bifocals.
The invention of bifocals is credited to Benjamin Franklin, who ingeniously took one pair of glasses with a distance-vision prescription and another pair of glasses with a near-vision prescription. He cut each lens in half horizontally. Then he put the two pairs of glasses together, with the distance-vision lens half on the top and the near-vision lens half on the bottom. Voila: bifocals.
Bifocals come in various styles. At Zenni Optical we offer the most popular bifocal lens style, the flat-top 28 bifocal (FT 28). This means that, unlike some bifocals with a round, near-vision (reading-vision) segment lens, the flat-top bifocal is in the shape of a D turned on its side, with the flat part of the D facing up and the curved portion at the bottom. Because of this, it’s also known as a D segment lens. The 28 comes from the width of the bifocal lens, roughly 28 millimeters across.
It’s important to know that, at Zenni Optical, the bifocal segment lens starts two millimeters below the center horizontal line of the lens. So if you select a lens with a height of 30 millimeters (the minimum lens height necessary to accommodate a multifocal prescription at Zenni), the bifocal segment lens will go from the bottom to 13 millimeters up from the bottom. That’s half of the lens height, 15 millimeters, minus two. If you select a lens with a height of 36 millimeters, your bifocal lens will start at 16 millimeters up from the bottom. That’s 18 (half of 36) millimeters minus two.

People who like bifocals prefer having their distance and near vision clearly separated by a visible line. They don’t care, or are less concerned about, what this implies about their age. However, people who don’t like the way bifocals correct their vision complain about the phenomenon known as “image jump”, which refers to the abrupt switch from distance to near vision, which can be disorienting.
Presbyopes who want a smoother blend between distance and near vision tend to prefer multifocal lenses with no visible line separating the larger distance portion and the smaller near segment. These invisible line bifocals (or, more accurately, multifocals) are called progressives.
progressive lenses
That’s because the vision “progresses” from distance to near vision with no image jump. In addition, in between the portion of the lens with distance vision and the portion with near vision, there is a portion of the lens that provides intermediate or computer vision.
Let’s look at these no-line multifocal lenses a little more closely. Progressives could also be called no-line trifocals, because there are three fields of vision in the lens with no visible line separating them. This is great for disguising your need to wear “old people’s glasses” but it comes at a cost. Literally, since progressive eyeglasses are, as a rule, more expensive than single-vision or bifocal glasses. But there’s also an aspect to pay attention to in terms of the amount of vision correction on the lens.
The reading-segment lens of bifocals is, as we noted, roughly 28 millimeters across. But with progressives, the reading segment lens is about half that, roughly 14 millimeters across. In addition, there is no vision correction on either side of the reading portion of the lens.
To get a sense of how a progressive lens is configured, think of a mushroom.
Here’s a good mushroom image:
wild mushrooms
Imagine the cap is the distance-vision section of the lens. Think of the mushroom’s stem as the intermediate and reading portion of the lens, around 14 millimeters wide. People who prefer the wider reading segment provided by bifocal lenses often feel that the progressive lens doesn’t provide a wide-enough near-vision reading corridor.
At we offer a few ways to customize a pair of progressive glasses for your preference when you order glasses online. For example, we ask questions to help us create the right progressive correction for your needs.
The first question we ask is, “What is your primary use for these glasses?” The choices are “General / Office” (the most common) and “Sports, Outdoors or Driving”. If you select General / Office, your lenses will have expanded distance and reading portions and a narrow intermediate (computer) section. If you select Sports, Outdoors or Driving, the lens is optimized for outdoor use. It has an increased distance and intermediate section but a smaller reading section.
The next question we ask is, “Where will you wear the glasses on your nose?” You have three choices: high on my nose, middle of my nose or low on my nose.
If you choose “high on my nose” the progressive section of the lens will begin at the exact horizontal midpoint on the lens. Again, with a lens height of 30 millimeters, the intermediate (computer) vision section will be at 15 millimeters up from the bottom. However, if you select either middle or low, the intermediate (computer) vision section will be at 17 millimeters up from the bottom, meaning two millimeters about the center horizontal line.
This is the opposite of bifocals, where the correction starts two millimeters below the center horizontal line.
Progressives won’t work for everyone, though. Some people respond adversely to the lack of a visible line separating the three focal fields, to the point of feeling dizzy or nauseous while wearing progressives. For most first-time progressive eyeglasses wearers, this goes away in a few minutes or a few days.
For some people, however, the discomfort they feel wearing progressives never goes away. Moreover, wearing a pair of multifocal glasses, bifocals or progressives, can be dangerous for some people, according to research published by Investigative Ophthalmology & Visual Science. This study found that people wearing either bifocal or progressive glasses are more than twice as likely to fall when wearing multifocal glasses than they are while wearing single-vision glasses. This increases if the wearer is walking downstairs.
People who feel they might have a hard time maintaining their balance while wearing multifocal glasses, or who have tried and dislike bifocals and progressives, would very likely do better with separate pairs of single-vision glasses for distance, computer and reading vision.
Single-vision distance glasses are used for seeing distances roughly two feet away or more. Single-vision intermediate (computer) glasses are used for seeing distances between one-and-a-half and two feet away, basically how far away a person usually is from a computer screen. Single-vision near (reading) glasses are used for seeing objects six inches to one-and-a-half feet away, roughly where you would hold a book you are reading.

For single-vision distance glasses, all that is needed are the plus or minus numbers in the Sphere (abbreviated SPH), Cylinder (CYL) and AXIS sections of a prescription. Ignore the plus number (it will be the same for both eyes) in the NV-ADD (Near-Vision reading ADDition) section of your prescription till you are ordering intermediate and reading glasses.
For single-vision reading glasses, it’s a little more complicated, although it just requires a bit of grade-school arithmetic. Take the plus number in the NV-ADD section of your prescription and add it to the numbers in the SPH section. For example, if you have -1.00 in your SPHs, and +2.00 in the NV-ADD, when you add these two numbers together, you end up with +1.00 in the SPH section. That gives you near single-vision.
Remember, if you are ordering single-vision reading glasses, you will need to lower your distance vision pupillary distance (PD). Your PD is the measurement, in millimeters, between the middle of one pupil to the center of the other.
If you have a single PD number, which would be one number between 50 and 75, subtract three. For example, let’s say your distance vision PD is 63. Lower this by three, to 60, for single-vision reading glasses.
However, you may have a dual PD, which is the measurement from the center of each pupil to the center of the bridge of your nose. In this case, you would have two numbers, each somewhere between the mid-20s to the mid-30s. These two numbers should add up to the single PD number. For example, if you had a dual PD of 31.5 in the right eye and 31.5 in the left, your PD would add up to 63. Therefore, to get your near-vision dual PD for single-vision reading glasses, you would lower each eye’s PD by one-and-a-half, since combining two of that number adds up to three. That would be 60, just as it is if you have a single PD.
For single-vision intermediate (computer) glasses, if you take your NV-ADD number and divide it in half (+2.00 divided by 2=+1.00), then add that to your -1.00 SPHs (+1.00 + -1.00=0.00), you get your intermediate (computer) single-vision. You don’t have to change the PD at all, but you could lower it by one or two millimeters, if you have a high PD (over 66).
If you want to use a pair of bifocals to reconfigure your prescription to get computer vision in the top part of your lens and reading vision in the bottom, do the same thing you would do for single vision computer glasses.

Divide the NV-ADD in half and add this half number to the SPHs. But this time, leave the remainder in the NV-ADD section. That’s how you would get computer vision in the top part of the lens and reading vision on the bottom.
It’s as simple as that.

Tuesday, December, 17 2013 by

Depth Perception, What Exactly is It?

Have you seen the movie Gravity? Did you see it in 3-D?

If so, you probably found yourself marveling at the amazing technological effect of seeing Sandra Bullock and George Clooney tumble through a very realistic depiction of the depths of outer space.

But you probably never find yourself marveling at the even more amazing technological effect of seeing everything in the world in 3-D – achieved by simply having two eyes, as well as a brain that blends the images your eyes see.

Very simply, this is depth perception, meaning the ability to see things in three dimensions – length, width, and depth – and to perceive how near or far away people and objects are.

One way humans perceive depth is by having eyes that are spaced a little bit apart. This is contrary to certain animals that tend to be prey, and have evolved so that their eyes are on either side of their head to enable them to spot predators. (Predator animals, on the other hand, or paw, usually have eyes positioned closely together, like humans, to enable them to spot, chase, and swoop down upon prey.)

Like those clunky 3-D glasses you wore while watching Gravity, human eyes spaced a little bit apart see two slightly different images, based on each eye’s position on your face. These two slightly different images are called binocular visual cues. They’re called binocular because the images are seen by two eyes.

Here’s a fun way to test your binocular vision. Take a look at the picture of the baseball below:

Now hold up one finger about six inches away from your face, in front of the picture of the baseball. If you focus your eyes on the baseball, you will see two somewhat transparent images of your finger, on either side of the baseball.

Now focus your eyes on your finger. You will see two somewhat transparent images of the baseball, on either side of your finger. That’s depth perception.

Here’s another way to test your depth perception, and to see whether one of your eyes is dominant.

Hold your finger in front of the baseball, just like before. Focus on the baseball and close your left eye. Your finger should appear to the left of the baseball. Now open your left eye and close your right eye. Your finger will seem to jump to the right of the baseball.

Once again, as in the previous test, if this is what you see, you have binocular – also known as stereo – vision. However, you may have faulty depth perception if you experience any of these things:

  • You can see your finger better on one side than the other.
    The view of your finger is larger with one eye than with the other.
  • One eye’s finger image appears right over the baseball, while the other one is far to the left or right.
  • You can only see one finger image.

If you do experience any of these things, it would be a good idea to get your eyes checked by an ophthalmologist or an optometrist.

But what if you have sight in only one eye? Do you still have depth perception, even if you don’t have binocular (stereo) vision?

Yes! Here is a way to test your one good eye for depth perception.

Let’s say you are doing this indoors. You will need stationary objects in three different distances from you: one object close to you, one a little farther away, and one still farther away from that one.

Let’s try this with three objects you may find indoors: a chair (close to you), a filing cabinet (a little farther away), and a table (farther away).

You can do this outside, too. Try it with, say, a bush (close to you), a tree (a little farther away), and a house (farther away).

Of course you don’t have to use these three indoor and outdoor objects, in these three positions. You can use them in different positions, or you can use three other objects, as long as the one farthest away is large enough so you can see it well.

Focus on the object in the mid-distance range – the table if you are inside, the tree if you are outside, if you are using those objects. Then walk from side to side.

As you focus on the midrange object, perhaps the filing cabinet or tree, you will see the object closer to you (the chair or the bush) move to the opposite direction from where you are walking. You will also see the object farther away (the table or the house) appear to move in the same direction that you are moving.

If you can see this with one eye (if you are sighted in both eyes you can close one eye while you do this), you have depth perception!

Another way either one or both eyes can perceive depth is by perspective – which means how objects appear based on the position of your eyes in relation to the object.

Here’s a very common way we perceive perspective. When we’re standing on the ground and looking straight down at parallel lines, they appear parallel:

If you click the below link it will take you another tab. Click the red “add perspective” ball, and you’ll see the lines converge (and be sure to come back when you are done). It’s like when you look at railroad tracks off in the distance as they approach the horizon. They appear to meet at what is called the “vanishing point”:

Just like the way perspective can trick the eye into seeing parallel lines that appear impossibly to meet, artists can use perspective tricks to create other optical illusions. Look at this one, created by the German psychiatrist Franz Muller-Lyer in 1889:

The two parallel lines are the exact same length. You can prove it with your ruler. But the line on the top appears longer, because our brains perceive the inverted angles as lengthening the line.

What causes this? Theorists have advanced various explanations, none proven. If you are interested in exploring this further, you can read the explanations at the link below, and test their validity yourself:

Your perspective affects not just your view of distance, but the appearance of colors and hues you perceive as well. Check out this picture:

The gray bar across the middle of the picture appears lighter on the left and darker on the right. But that’s only because of the contrast between the gray bar and the different shades of gray in the background. The background is darker on the left and lighter on the right. Despite its appearance, the gray bar is actually the same color on the right and left.

In addition to appearing to vary shades of a color, sometimes our visual perspective can cause us to see colors that are not actually there. This is because our brains can perceive color in relation to other colors that are present. Take a look at this optical illusion, follow the simple instructions, and notice if you see green grass:

These optical illusions are all results of perspective – what you perceive as true is determined by your perspective, a principle that can apply not only in vision but in many other aspects of life, as well!

As you ponder this, here are some other fun optical illusions to look at and share with your family and friends, to get their perspective, too!

Tuesday, December, 10 2013 by

How to Measure an Eyeglass Frame

Your prescription has changed and you need a new pair of eyeglasses.

So you take a little trip down to your local optometrist’s office. You’ve been getting your eyeglasses there ever since your first-grade teacher noticed you were squinting at what she wrote on the blackboard.

"... maybe if it was written in English? What's that... they're numbers?... oh"

You go in and look around. You check out the frames. They’ve got all the cool retro wayfarer styles everyone’s wearing. Then you look at a price tag. All of a sudden you have a bad case of sticker shock.

My eyes must be really bad, you think. That can’t say what I think it says. More than $300? Just for the frame?

You ask the optician, who confirms your worst suspicion. Not only that, he gives you a look like he’s saying, if you have to ask how much these glasses cost, you can’t afford them.

That’s it, you say to yourself, after slinking out of there with your hand on your wallet. I’ve had it with these brick-and-mortar eyeglasses stores, where the price gouging feels more like eye gouging. I’m finally going to do it. I’m going to order glasses online, and save all that money I’ve been hearing about.


You’ve just made a decision worth hundreds of dollars. Maybe even thousands in the long run. It’s true. If you shop carefully online, you’ll find prices for discount eyeglass frames and lenses so low you could buy high-quality, stylish eyeglasses for your whole family online for what it would cost to buy just one pair for you locally.

Subtle... am I right?

But there’s a major pitfall to avoid when you order glasses online.

How can you make sure the glasses you buy over the internet will fit you if you can’t try them on before you buy them?

That’s a great question. We have an even better answer.

Here is how to make sure the glasses you buy online will fit you well when they come in the mail, and you take them out of the package and try them on.

First, if you already have a pair of eyeglasses that fits you well and looks good on your face, you’re ahead of the game.

All you have to do is get the frame dimensions from these eyeglasses, and order a pair online that matches those dimensions.

It doesn’t even have to be an exact match. All eyeglass frame dimensions are listed in millimeters. A millimeter is a tiny unit of measurement. There are 25.4 millimeters to an inch. So you have a leeway of a few millimeters on each element of a frame.

Those elements are:

The bridge. This is the part of the frame that goes across the bridge of your nose. That’s why it’s called the bridge.

The temple arm. Those are the parts that connect to the front of the frame on either side of your head and rest behind your ear. Sometimes people call the temple arms “legs,” “stems,” or even “bows,” but in the optical industry they’re called temple arms, because they are next to your temple.

The lens width. This is the diameter of one lens, measured at the widest part. It’s also called the “eye size” in the optical industry, which doesn’t make a lot of sense, because it’s not the measurement of the size of your eye; it’s the measurement of the width of your eyeglasses’ lens. We’re mentioning this because sometimes eye doctors will suggest frame dimensions and write these on your prescription. When they do, they may write “eye size” on the prescription when they mean the lens width. So don’t worry about matching that number with the size of your eye. It’s the width of one eyeglass lens.

The lens height. This is measured just like the lens width, but vertically, not horizontally. If your prescription includes an NV-ADD (Near-Vision reading ADDition) number, you can order bifocal or progressive glasses. This is where the lens height measurement becomes crucial: The lens height must be at least 30 millimeters to accommodate a bifocal or progressive prescription.

The frame width. This is the most important measurement on a frame to determine whether it will fit you well and look good on your face. It’s the measurement of the entire front of the frame, from the point that sticks out farthest on the left, to the point that sticks out farthest on the right. Or vice versa.

Remember when we said that if you have a pair of glasses right now that fits you well and looks good on your face you are ahead of the game? Well, you’re rounding third and heading for home if on the inside of one of your temple arms you have three numbers, which are the dimensions of, in order, the lens width, the bridge, and the temple length.

Most of the time, if the numbers are stamped on the inside of the temple arm, they will be listed the way they are in the first example, on the left.  (Ignore the first number on the temple arm that precedes these numbers; that will just be the manufacturer’s model or stock number.)

After this model or stock number, the lens width comes first, the bridge is next, and the temple arm is last. Sometimes it could be listed the way it is in the second example, on the right, with the temple arm length first, the lens width next, and the bridge last. Either way, there will usually be a little square between the first and second numbers.

You may even see a pair of glasses that has these numbers stamped or engraved on the inside of the bridge, but this is rare.

If you have the numbers stamped on the inside of the temple arm or on another element of the frame, the only other measurements you need are the frame width and the lens height.

If you don’t have numbers stamped on the inside of the temple arm, you can measure the dimensions of your frame elements with a millimeter ruler. Don’t have a millimeter ruler? Not a problem; you can get one at any drug or dollar store. However, if you have a cloth tape measure with millimeter hash marks, this would be the best measuring tool to use, especially when we come to the temple arm measurement.

Here’s how to measure each element we discussed:

The bridge. Measure horizontally, at the top of the bridge, from the edge of one lens to the edge of the other lens. The part of the frame that holds the lenses in place will be included in the measurement, since you’re measuring from lens edge to lens edge, not frame edge to frame edge.

The temple arm. This is the measurement for which a cloth measuring tape with millimeter hash marks would come in handy. Here’s why: The temple arm is measured from the hinge – where the temple arm connects to the front of the frame – all the way back to the tip.

The measurement includes the bend around the ear, which is why a cloth tape measure is useful for this measurement. If you have a cloth tape measure, you can measure the curve easily. If you’re using a plastic or wood straight-edged ruler, it would be best to do the measurement in two parts.

Start at the hinge, measure to the beginning of the bend, and write that measurement down. Then go back to where you left off, right at the beginning of the bend. Measure the last part, which is angled, to the tip. Add the two sectional measurements together, and that’s the total temple arm length.

You may have a pair of glasses with cable temple arms, the kind that curve around your ear. (pictured above)

If you don’t have a cloth millimeter tape measure, you could print out the downloadable PD ruler at the Zenni Optical website,

Click here for a larger image

You can use this paper ruler to measure the cable temple arm. Or you could cut a strip of paper about a half-inch wide and 10 inches long. Mark the little paper strip where you begin measuring the temple arm at the hinge. Curve the paper strip around the curve of the temple arm and mark it where the temple arm ends. Stretch out the paper strip and measure the length with a millimeter ruler. That’s your cable temple arm length.

The frame width. Again, it’s the entire horizontal measurement of the front of the frame, measured from the part that extends farthest outward on one side to the part that extends farthest outward on the other side. A metal frame may have a little piece that sticks out on the side toward the top, like the part that extends from the outer edge of the lens on a pair of rimless glasses, just before bending to meet the hinge of the temple arm, such as on this rimless frame:

If you do have a frame such as this one, or any frame with a piece that sticks out on the side, you would include that part of the frame, on each side, in your measurement of the frame width. Whether a frame is too big, too small, or just right for your face is mostly determined by the frame width. Also, make sure you do this measurement at the front of the frame. You don’t need to measure the distance between the two temple arms at the back of the frame.

The lens width. If the width of the frame you are shopping for online matches within two or three millimeters the width of the frame you have that fits you well, you can be confident that the frame you see online will fit you just as well. But be aware of the lens width: even though the total frame width might match the width of your frame, the lens width might be a little narrow or wide for your pupillary distance, which is the measurement of the distance between the middle of each pupil. This measurement determines where to place the optical center on each lens.

The lens height. This is measured just like the lens width, but vertically, not horizontally. Once again, the lens height must be at least 30 millimeters to accommodate a bifocal or progressive prescription. In addition, pay attention to the lens height, because this is an important factor in determining how the glasses will look on your face. If you get a frame with a tall lens height, something over 36 millimeters, the glasses may look too big for your face. Conversely, a too-short lens height, lower than 30 millimeters, may not provide all the corrected-vision coverage your eyes need.

Once you have the measurements of your frame, you can shop for a frame online that will fit you.

Remember, you have a leeway of a few millimeters on each element, with a caveat: Stick to no more than two millimeters higher or lower on the bridge. For example, if your perfect bridge measurement is 18 millimeters, you can go as low as two below that, 16 millimeters, or as high as two above, 20 millimeters. Therefore, a bridge that’s anywhere between 16-20 millimeters should fit you just fine.

Also, if you’re getting a frame with adjustable nose pads, this gives you even more leeway, because the nose pads can be adjusted for the best fit. Pinch them closer together to make the bridge fit more snugly and rest higher on your nose; spread them apart to loosen the fit and let them rest lower on your nose.

On the frame width, lens width, and lens height, you should be fine with a leeway of three millimeters. Therefore, if your perfect frame is 135 millimeters wide, frames between 132-138 millimeters should fit you just as well.

Since many temple arms are adjustable at the curve where the temple arm bends behind your ear, you have a leeway of as many as four millimeters. In that case, if the temple arm on your eyeglasses is 140 millimeters, you will be fine with a temple arm that falls between 136-144 millimeters. However, many temple arms are not adjustable, especially those made of aluminum alloy, titanium, memory titanium, and memory plastic. Check the temple arm material listed in the description of the frame to be sure. Also, look at an enlarged picture of the online glasses. If you can see that embedded in the temple arm is a stainless steel rod, you can be confident that this frame’s temple arm is adjustable.

Here are a few more things to keep in mind. The vintage styles from 50 years ago and more that are popular today were often worn much smaller than glasses are today. This is because lenses were made of glass then, and the heaviness of glass caused eyeglasses manufacturers to keep the lenses as small as possible.

Conversely, eyeglasses in the ’70s were frequently oversized, such as these worn by the late Hollywood super-agent Irving Paul Lazar:

When you're an ex-president's literary agent you can pretty much wear whatever you want.

Another thing to keep in mind is how strong your prescription is. If you have a strong prescription, +/- 6.00, the wider and thicker your lenses will be, on the outer edge with a minus sphere (nearsighted) prescription, in the middle with a plus sphere (farsighted) prescription. Therefore, if you have a strong prescription you may want to stick with lens widths that are lower than 50 millimeters.

Good luck!

Friday, December, 6 2013 by

Eyesight and Diabetes

Diabetes is known as a condition that affects your blood sugar levels, potentially affecting many body systems, including your eyes. If you have diabetes, or are at risk of developing the condition, it’s important to monitor your vision for any changes, as diabetes can lead to several eye conditions that may result in both pain and vision loss.
Here are some eye conditions that are associated with diabetes:
Diabetic Retinopathy
Diabetes can affect the blood vessels in the eye, causing leaking or blockages. This can damage to the retina, leading to vision loss. Once discovered, there are several treatment options, although good management of your diabetes can make a significant difference in the severity of the condition. Laser surgery can treat the blood vessels in your eye and other surgical options exist for more advanced retinopathy.
A cataract is a clouding of your eye’s lens and can occur in people who don’t have diabetes, though it may develop earlier in diabetics. Surgical treatment can clear up the lens or replace it with a human-made, plastic version.
Glaucoma is a serious medical condition that cause the build-up of fluid in your eyes. When this happens, you may experience intense pain and may be at risk of losing your eyesight. Some types of glaucoma are relatively symptom-free until they’ve progressed to a point where you may lose vision, making early detection very important. Glaucoma can be treated through medication and surgery: Many eye doctors routinely screen for it as part of eye exams, but you should ask just to make sure that your doctor is checking you for the condition.
Blurred Eyesight
Changes in blood sugar levels can cause blurred vision. This typically goes away once you’ve got your blood sugar under control, though it may take a few months for your eyesight to get back to normal. If you do notice that you’re having trouble seeing things, be sure to get your eyes checked. While the problem may be something as simple as astigmatism or presbyopia, blurred vision has more serious causes, including diabetes, so it’s important to get a medical evaluation.
There does appear to be a connection between good management of diabetes and the severity of the many conditions that often accompany it. While eating right and monitoring your blood sugar won’t absolutely prevent eye problems or other medical issues, they can help delay the onset of complications and minimize the severity of co-morbid conditions.  If you have diabetes, it’s important that you talk to your doctor about any vision problems that you may be experiencing. It is also a good idea to get regular eye exams, which can identify eye problems in their earliest stages so that they can be treated effectively. Your eye doctor can put you on an exam schedule that meets your needs.

Wednesday, December, 4 2013 by